In 1957
the newly founded Scotsman Mountaineering Club held its first meet,
with eleven members travelling by hired coach to Ben Lawers. Outings
followed to Arrochar and Ben Lui, and so a tradition was established.
The founding chairman was the writer and broadcaster Rennie McOwan,
then a Scotsman journalist, with Matthew Moulton as secretary
and Robin Crearie as treasurer. The club also had Sir John Hunt as its
first honorary president (memories of the first Everest ascent still
fresh in mind) with Scotsman editor (later Sir) Alastair
Dunnett as honorary vice-president.
These were days of innocence when few people
walked the Scottish hills and there was little specialist climbing
gear, few guidebooks, and much learning by trial and error. Ice-axes
and crampons were virtually unknown. On an early ascent of Ben Lui one
group traversed icy scree in single file, passing their single ice-axe
to and fro to cut steps as required.
From an early date the husbands, wives, girl
friends, etc. of Scotsman employees were allowed to join as
associate members, and in the fullness of time associates came to
outnumber ordinary members. It was therefore decided in 1972 to make
membership open to all, and at this point the name was changed to the
Ptarmigan Mountaineering Club (apparently unaware that the name had
previously been used by another club in the west of Scotland). Mention
of "the Scotsman bus" still rings bells among hill
worthies of a certain vintage. In the beginning meets were held on a
Saturday (to fit the needs of newspapermen who often had to work
Sunday shifts), but this was changed to a Sunday as the membership
widened.
Right from the start buses were hired from
Hunters of Loanhead. There were a few experiments with other, cheaper,
firms but these were abandoned once it became clear that cheapness did
not always go hand in hand with reliability. At first members had a
completely free hand to do their own thing on the hills, but problems
with erratic timekeeping eventually led to calls for greater
discipline. This led to the introduction of the present system where
route plans are discussed on the outward journey and recorded by the
bus convener, with an emergency phone number available.
Opportunities for exploring the Highlands
increased dramatically with the opening of the Forth road bridge in
1964, and subsequent road improvements have speeded up journey times.
(Older members still shudder at the memory of the journey through
Glenfarg and Perth city centre before the days of the M90, the Perth
bypass and the Friarton bridge.) Conversely, however, some traditional
destinations have been lost as buses have been banned from, or have
refused to tackle, narrow country roads. Examples include Glen Lyon,
Glen Lochay and the road up to the Ben Lawers visitor centre. The
introduction of tachographs and associated rules on driver’s hours
have also reduced flexibility.
It is hard now to imagine a repeat of one
early meet to Ben Lawers when several parties got lost on the hill due
to bad weather and the bus eventually returned to Edinburgh after 1.00
a.m. Not that all adventures have been caused by wayward members.
Another late return, in June 1990, featured a sick bus (with a lady
driver) which failed to make it up the ski road to the Coire Cas
carpark and, on the return journey, finally expired at the top of
Drumochter. In those days before mobile phones the bus convener set
off intrepidly on foot to find a phone to summon a replacement bus
from Loanhead, leading to a comedy of errors when the original bus
managed to crawl a few miles further, mislaying the bus convener en
route.
Since the early days club activities have
centred on one day meets. Experimental weekend outings had limited
success, and the "moonlight walk" has not been repeated.
There have also been occasional social events, including slide
evenings, and a communal high tea is now an established fixture on the
November meet.
Recollections of the club’s early days can
be found in Rennie McOwan’s article ‘Looking back from a hilltop’
in the Scots magazine, vol. 145, no.5, November 1996, p.504-510
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